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A chest of drawers is usually the second most expensive piece of furniture in the bedroom after the bed itself, and it is the piece that takes the most daily wear. Drawers get yanked open, slammed shut, and loaded with heavy winter knits for years on end. This guide covers how to size a chest of drawers for a real Australian bedroom, how many drawers you actually need for what you own, and what separates a chest that lasts twenty years from one that starts sagging at year two.
For most Aussie master bedrooms, a 6-drawer chest (three rows of two, around 100 cm wide) is the default and covers two people’s folded clothing. For a second bedroom or smaller room, a 4-drawer tallboy around 50 to 70 cm wide uses less floor space. Always check drawer depth (front to back) against what you actually store, and make sure the piece is built from solid timber with dovetail or dowelled joinery and proper drawer runners.
The category is used loosely, and different stores label the same piece differently. Here is how we use the terms at Oak Furniture Store so you can shop with confidence.

| Piece | Typical size | What it stores | Where it goes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chest of drawers | 90 to 130 cm wide, 80 to 110 cm tall | Folded clothes, pyjamas, knits, socks, underwear | Against a main wall, often opposite the bed |
| Tallboy (highboy) | 50 to 70 cm wide, 110 to 150 cm tall | The same items, in a narrow footprint | Narrow walls, smaller rooms, alcoves |
| Dresser (lowboy) | 130 to 180 cm wide, 75 to 85 cm tall | Clothes plus room for a mirror on top | Under a window or against a long wall |
| Bedside chest | 40 to 55 cm wide, 50 to 70 cm tall | Reading, charging, bedside essentials | Each side of the bed |
A fully-kitted bedroom usually has two bedsides, one chest of drawers or tallboy, and either a wardrobe or a second storage piece. If you want to build the room up in stages, start with the bedsides and the chest, then add wardrobes or a blanket box later.
Measure the wall you intend to place the chest against, then subtract clearance for the bed, the bedsides, and anything else already in the room. A chest of drawers needs around 75 cm of floor clearance in front of it so a full drawer can be pulled open and someone can stand there to fish out a jumper.
| Bedroom size | Recommended chest | Width | Why |
|---|---|---|---|
| Master (12 m²+) | 6-drawer or 9-drawer wide chest | 100 to 130 cm | Two people’s clothes, visual anchor opposite the bed |
| Second bedroom (9 to 12 m²) | 4-drawer chest or tallboy | 70 to 100 cm | One person’s clothing, leaves floor open |
| Single or kids’ room (under 9 m²) | 4-drawer tallboy | 50 to 70 cm | Uses vertical space, minimal floor footprint |
| Walk-in dressing zone | 2 x 6-drawer chests side by side | 200 cm combined | One chest per person, mirror above |
If you already have a wardrobe, you can size down the chest accordingly. The full bedroom storage equation is hanging space plus drawer space; most Aussies need 4 to 6 drawers in addition to hanging space for a full wardrobe of clothes.
A good way to size drawer count is to open the wardrobe you already have and count categories of folded clothing. Most people need drawer space for these five categories:
That is five drawers per person. A 6-drawer chest comfortably handles one adult with room to spare, or two adults sharing if the categories are consolidated. For couples who want separate drawers each, look at a 9-drawer or a pair of tallboys.
Kids add a sixth category (school uniforms) but use less volume per item, so a 4-drawer tallboy usually handles a single child up to early teens.
Chests take more daily stress than almost any other bedroom piece. The difference between one that lasts twenty years and one that starts drooping in two comes down to four construction details. Ask about these before you buy.
The front, back, and sides of each drawer need to be properly joined or they will loosen over time. Dovetail joints (interlocking wedges) are the gold standard and the sign of a piece built to last. Dowelled joints (wooden pegs in drilled holes) are also strong. Avoid staples or nail-only construction, which works loose within a few years of daily use.
The runner is what the drawer slides on. Timber-on-timber runners (the traditional method) age beautifully in solid wood chests. Metal ball-bearing runners open more smoothly and support more weight, which is useful for lower drawers loaded with heavy jumpers. Either is fine; avoid plastic tabs masquerading as runners.
Lift out a drawer in the showroom and check the base. A solid or plywood base that sits in a grooved channel will hold up. A thin hardboard base stapled to the bottom of the sides will bow under a winter jumper load.
A chest described as "solid oak" can still have drawer sides and backs made of MDF or chipboard. Ask whether the drawer boxes are solid timber too. At Oak Furniture Store, our chests are 100% solid oak including the drawer sides and bases, which is why they outlast MDF pieces by decades. The reasoning on this is laid out in detail in our guide on particle board versus solid wood furniture.
You will see three common finishes on chests of drawers in AU. Each has a different lifespan and each looks different after five years of wear.
Shows the grain, ages with warmth, can be sanded and refinished if the top gets scratched. The most forgiving option over a twenty-year horizon because the timber itself is the finish; there is nothing to chip off.
Clean and on-trend in white, sage, navy, or dusky pink. Paint chips on corners and drawer edges after a few years of daily use, but the underlying solid timber can be stripped and repainted. Picks up fashion trends; also loses fashion trends.
The cheapest of the three. Looks fine on day one. Within five years the veneer lifts on drawer fronts and corners where hands touch it most. Water rings mark permanently. No path to refinish.
For a piece you expect to outlast your current house, solid oak is the right spend. For a staging piece in a rental, painted solid timber is the compromise call. Skip veneer-on-MDF unless the price difference is genuinely significant.
A chest of drawers feels right in a room when at least one other piece picks up the same timber or finish. The usual pairings:
You can browse full bedroom pairings in our bedroom collection, or check out matching bedside tables, wardrobes, blanket boxes, and dressing tables individually.
If the dining room is your next project, our dining table and dining chair sizing guide applies the same pairing logic to dining furniture.
Oak Furniture Store carries 100% solid oak chests of drawers, tallboys, bedside tables, wardrobes, and matching bedroom pieces across a range of finishes from neutral oak through to rustic and painted options. You can see the joinery and pull every drawer at our Auckland showroom, or order nationwide with confidence online. In-stock chests ship free across Australia, and our Lowest Price Guarantee means if you find the same genuine hardwood chest of drawers cheaper elsewhere, we will match the price. Start with our full chest of drawers collection.
A standard 6-drawer chest in AU is around 100 cm wide, 45 cm deep, and 90 cm tall. Tallboys run narrower (50 to 70 cm wide) and taller (up to 150 cm). Dressers run wider (130 to 180 cm) and lower (around 80 cm).
Most couples sharing a bedroom need 6 to 9 drawers of clothing storage in addition to hanging space. A 6-drawer chest plus two bedsides (each with 2 to 3 drawers) covers this. Couples who want full drawer separation benefit from a 9-drawer chest or a pair of tallboys.
Usually yes. A tallboy uses vertical wall space that would otherwise sit empty and keeps the floor open, which makes a small room feel larger. The trade-off is the top drawer ends up too high for small children to reach; not a problem for adult-only rooms.
Pull a drawer out and look at the inside of the drawer sides, the back of the drawer, and the underside of the top. If the grain continues consistently across all surfaces (including the hidden ones), it is solid timber. If the back or inside surfaces change to a flat, uniform colour or a different material, there is veneer or MDF underneath.
Dovetail joinery is where the drawer front and drawer sides interlock like wedges. It is the strongest way to join timber at a right angle and lets a drawer handle decades of daily use without the sides pulling away from the front. It is the single most reliable signal of a well-made chest.
Matching works, but it is not mandatory. The safer rule is that at least two of the three pieces (bed, bedsides, chest) should share the same timber tone and finish. The third can be a different silhouette or even a different timber for contrast, as long as the undertones line up.